5 lessons surfing has taught me
Like Edison’s’ failures ultimately leading to the light bulb. Every surf has taught me something new by pushing my body and mind onto a path of discovery. Learning new aspects of myself and finding those little pieces of my soul hiding between the cracks. I can honestly say that spending time in the water has created the man behind Wavish.
I had time over the past year to really think about what those lessons were. What moments contributed to the creation to these new ideas? Some were silly and others more heart-felt. In the end though there was a clear theme. I had evolved from being a man of this land into a being of this planet.
This journey into self-discovery might not be for everyone. Surfing might fulfill you in other ways that does not contribute inwards but rather through external expression. I just hope these lessons help with your own personal understanding of how surfing can improve your well-being.
Courage – Overcoming fear
Fear has always prevented my progress in the past. I usually found myself being lost and not able to achieve my goals. This feeling drove me deeper into the abyss of fear. As my surfing journey continued the weight of my continuous expectation started to build as well. I wanted to surf like my heroes. Unfortunately this was not the case. Hours in the water went hand in hand with frustration and sometimes disappointment. Despite this, I found a happiness that could not be quenched by another activity. I wanted it. For the first time in my life I committed to a cause and found the courage to stay on course. I overcame the fear of failure through my passion and drive to succeed. Surfing created a path to my own sense of courageousness that allowed me to develop the will to overcome anything.
Faith – Believe in yourself
As my courage grew in the water and on land so too did my self-belief. I became more aware of my decisions and acted on them far quicker than before. In the water you have less time to think. In the moment you are either going, or not. This simplification of the decision process has led me to a deeper understanding. A truth behind what it means to be in control of your actions but not in control of the situation. Through surfing I built up a new sense of confidence to make tough decisions and grow. A renewed faith in my ability as a surfer and as a human being.
Joy – Rediscover your inner child
In a world built around this idea of being an adult it is very important to remember that you weren’t always one. You were not always a realist or pessimistic. You were not always responsible and punctual. There was a time when your opinion had no grounds or facts. There was a time when everything was your first time. Our youth was an age of discovery and adventure. We would get lost into our minds and create worlds within worlds. Surfing took me back to that time. When a smile could cure depression and not pills from the pharmacy. A youthful look on life based on pure joy and a somewhat naïve perspective. It’s ok to be an idiot. It’s ok to be foolish. Let’s rediscover our inner child.
Strength – Control of your own body
Many would say that fitness is a big part of surfing and I do agree. As you progress within the sport there are generous changes that occur throughout your body. Paddling increases upper body strength while popping up, turning and length of ride improves the lower. These are all facts but I believe there is more to it. Surfing, like yoga, grows the individuals’ awareness to their own bodies’ strength. Slowly allowing them to learn how to better use their new found strength.
Humility – Accepting your failures
The last and most important lesson I have learnt from surfing is accepting my failures. My ego and confidence has taken me far but has also been my downfall in many situations. Surfing broke down my internal pedestals to ground my soul. I learnt humility through acceptance of my own faults and failures. By understanding my own weaknesses I grew much strength. The ocean guided me to place where I can grow the body, mind and spirit. It is the most important lesson.
See you out there